NEXT: Rolex Oysterdate Precision

Rolex Oysterdate Precision [SixSixNineFour] Manual Wind. A 17 Jewels Calibre [一二二五]movement powers this beauty. Actually this was a watch which I had owned since 1998. Lovely watch with flawless silver dial that oozes elegance.

NEXT: Sandoz Submariner

Sandoz Submariner as my daily beater watch. Great value for an ETA [TwoEightTwoFour]-Two movement which is used by Omega, Breitling, Tudor, Heuer and a host of other Swiss brands. ETA [TwoEightTwoFour] is known for its robustness, making it an ideal movement for sport watches. The [TwoEightNineTwo] is a newer and slimmer movement but I prefer the durability of the [TwoEightTwoFour]. Winding the movement by hand is a pleasure!

One workhorse of the ETA mechanical line is the ETA [TwoEightTwoFour]-Two. The [TwoEightTwoFour] is an automatic winding, twenty-five (25) jewel movement, available in four executions or grades: Standard, Elaborated (improved), Top and Chronometer levels of component quality. The key components which differ at the line of demarcation between Elaborated and Top are the barrel spring, shock protection system, pallet stones, balance wheel & hairspring and the regulator mechanism. To illustrate the differences in accuracy garnered by the successive grades, consider the following specifications: the Standard grade is adjusted in two positions with an average rate of +/-12 seconds/day with a maximum daily variation of +/-30 seconds/day; the Elaborated grade is adjusted in three positions with an average rate of +/-7 seconds/day with a maximum daily variation of +/-30 seconds/day; while the Top grade is adjusted in five positions with an average rate of +/-4 seconds/day with a maximum daily variation of +/-10 seconds/day. The Chronometer grade must meet strict standards prescribed by the COSC. Chronometer grade movements are serial numbered as that is a requirement of the certification authority. Moreover, it should be noted that the degree of decoration on the movement's parts, generally only an aesthetic improvement, increases as well with the grade.

The [TwoEightTwoFour] is however, widely considered the more upscale of the basic ETA movements, and it certainly a newer design dating to the 1970's where as the [TwoEightTwoFour] traces its roots back to the 1950's. The [TwoEightNineTwo] is fitted with top quality components. The [TwoEightNineTwo] is an automatic winding, 21 Jewels movement, available in three executions or grades: Elaborated, Top and Chronometer. They key components which differ at the line of demarcation between Elaborated and Top are the pallet stones, balance wheel & hairspring and the regulator mechanism. To illustrate the differences in accuracy garnered by the successive grades, consider the following specifications: the Elaborated grade is adjusted in four positions with an average rate of +/-5 seconds/day with a maximum daily variation of +/-20 seconds/day; while the Top grade is adjusted in five positions with an average rate of +/-4 seconds/day with a maximum daily variation of +/-15 seconds/day. The Chronometer grade must meet strict standards prescribed by the [COSC]: an average rate of -4/+6 with a maximum daily variation of +/-5 seconds/day. The wider range for the Chronometer grade is designed to take into account the differences in a watches rate between static positions, as when the tests are performed, and the dynamic positions as when a watch is actually worn. Chronometer grade movements are serial numbered. Moreover, the degree of decoration on the movement's parts, generally an aesthetic improvement, increases with the grade.

The [TwoEightNineTwo] is regarded by many horologists as being in the same 'quality' range (accuracy and reliability) as the in-house produced Rolex movements. The ETA [TwoEightNineTwo] is usually found in the more expensive and prestigious watches and brands. Owing to is relative slim height of 3.60mm, the [TwoEightNineTwo] is a favorite of watch brands that market complicated movements such as Breitling with its trademark chronographs. Given the slim dimensions of the [TwoEightNineTwo], it provides a good platform on which to add or build a chronograph complication.

NEXT: Twin of Seiko [SixOneThreeEight] Helmet Case

This is the TWIN version of the [SixOneThreeEight] Helmet case watch in the previous post, love it just as much!

TARGETTED: Number 3

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster, another watch I will love to own. Equipped with the great El Primero movement, a triple calendar (month, day, date) and a moonphase is also packed into this watch. The El Primero calibre [四一零], 31 Jewels and 354 parts, is the heart and soul of the Chronomaster. It sings to the tune of 36,000 beats per hour, or 10 ticks per seconds, providing for a really a smooth glide. First produced in 1969, the El Primero is is highly regarded for its quality by many as the best mechanical chronograph movement, and has been used by a number of other manufacturers. Rolex, for instance, used El Primero movements in their Daytona chronographs for several years.

The Zenith is a classically constructed movement where the chrono-functions are integrated and steered by a column-wheel, which again follows the steps of classic watch-making," said the knowledgeable Hans Zbinden. The calibre 410 is thick compared to the 1994 Zenith Elite (6.5 mm vs. 3.3 mm), but thinner than the Valjoux 7750 (7.9 mm), or the Lemania 5100 (8.25 mm), two movements that drive most modern chronographs.

Zenith is a Swiss watch manufacturer started in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot at the age of 22, in Le Locle in the canton of Neuchâtel. Zenith has a long reputation for the quality and precision of their watches, with 1,565 1st-place precision awards to date. The majority of Swiss watchmakers today use stock movements from suppliers such as ETA. Zenith is one of the few Swiss watch brands that make their own mechanical movements - the Elite (standard movement) and the El Primero (chronograph).

Modified DESERT DIVER: To own or not?

Modified pieces of SKX007K and SNX431K, tempting to get one modified, but should I?

NEXT: Seiko [SixOneThreeEight] Helmet Case

Seiko [SixOneThreeEight]-ZeroZeroTwoZero 自动 Chronograph. Mint dial and hands, but had to refinish the case to restore it to its former glory. Installed a NOS Seiko mesh bracelet to set off the whole design. Wow!

TARGETTED: Number 2

Seiko [SixOneThreeEight]-ZeroZeroTwoZero 自动 Chronograph. Missed it twice, so close yet so far.

买了卖了: Seiko [SixOneThreeEight] Big Small Eye

Seiko [SixOneThreeEight]-ZeroZeroOneOne 自动 Chronograph. Its another of those in great condition, even got around to refinishing the case slightly. Dial was perfect NOS, but it really has to go, not my cup of tea.

Owned it, SOLD IT: Seiko [SevenZeroOneSix] Monaco

Seiko [SevenZeroOneSix]-FiveZeroOneOne 自动 Chronograph with 5 hands. Bought it in excellent mint condition, did not really like it, sold it after owning for less than 3 weeks. Excellent watch though. Press the button at 2 to start the chrono, again to stop. Then at 4 to reset to zeroes. Or press at 2 to start, then at 4 to zero out and start right over. Cool flyback feature!

Both [SevenZeroOneSix] and [SevenZeroOneSeven] movements have the column wheel/vertical clutch chronograph mechanism found in earlier Seiko chronographs (like the [SixOneThreeEight] and [SixOneThreeNine]) but feature a 12-hour counter on the same subdial as the 30-minute counter. The [SevenZeroOneSix] and [SevenZeroOneSeven] even has a flyback feature which is incredibly useful for this type of watch. Being that it has no sweep second hand (only the chrono seconds) and that the vertical clutch mechanism does not cause any extra wear on the movement to leave the chronograph running all the time (well, minimal extra wear anyway), its handy to leave the chrono running and simply use the flyback feature when you want to time something (a one button start as opposed to a three button start if you had no flyback but left the chronograph running).

The [SevenZeroOneSix] is essentially an 'extension' of Seiko's original auto-winding chronograph calibre, the [SixOneThreeNine] (which only had a 30-min minute counter @ 6 o'clock). The [SixOneThreeNine] tied with 2 Swiss ventures for '1st to market' for an auto-winding chrono calibre in 1969. The [SixOneThreeEight] (with a separate 12-hour counter) came out in 1970, and the [SevenZeroOneSix] was produced from 1972-77. The Swiss consortium of Breitling, Buren-Hamilton, Heuer-Leonidas, and Dubois-Depraz came out with the famous Cal. 11 'Left-handed' Chronomat, while Zenith-Movado came out with it's so-called 'El Primero' the 3019-PHC. The Cal. 11 only lasted in the market about 3 years, due to various problems, but the Seiko [SixOneThreeNine] lasted until 1979 in production, a rather impressive comparison.

Owned it, SOLD IT: Seiko [SevenZeroOneSix] Monaco

Seiko [SevenZeroOneSix]-FiveZeroOneOne 自动 Chronograph with 5 hands. Bought it in excellent mint condition, did not really like it, sold it after owning for less than 3 weeks. Excellent watch though. Press the button at 2 to start the chrono, again to stop. Then at 4 to reset to zeroes. Or press at 2 to start, then at 4 to zero out and start right over. Cool flyback feature!

Both [SevenZeroOneSix] and [SevenZeroOneSeven] movements have the column wheel/vertical clutch chronograph mechanism found in earlier Seiko chronographs (like the [SixOneThreeEight] and [SixOneThreeNine]) but feature a 12-hour counter on the same subdial as the 30-minute counter. The [SevenZeroOneSix] and [SevenZeroOneSeven] even has a flyback feature which is incredibly useful for this type of watch. Being that it has no sweep second hand (only the chrono seconds) and that the vertical clutch mechanism does not cause any extra wear on the movement to leave the chronograph running all the time (well, minimal extra wear anyway), its handy to leave the chrono running and simply use the flyback feature when you want to time something (a one button start as opposed to a three button start if you had no flyback but left the chronograph running).

The [SevenZeroOneSix] is essentially an 'extension' of Seiko's original auto-winding chronograph calibre, the [SixOneThreeNine] (which only had a 30-min minute counter @ 6 o'clock). The [SixOneThreeNine] tied with 2 Swiss ventures for '1st to market' for an auto-winding chrono calibre in 1969. The [SixOneThreeEight] (with a separate 12-hour counter) came out in 1970, and the [SevenZeroOneSix] was produced from 1972-77. The Swiss consortium of Breitling, Buren-Hamilton, Heuer-Leonidas, and Dubois-Depraz came out with the famous Cal. 11 'Left-handed' Chronomat, while Zenith-Movado came out with it's so-called 'El Primero' the 3019-PHC. The Cal. 11 only lasted in the market about 3 years, due to various problems, but the Seiko [SixOneThreeNine] lasted until 1979 in production, a rather impressive comparison.

TARGETTED: Number 1

Guess the title says it all, Citizen Eco-Zilla, one of my targets.

NEXT: Orange Monster: BIG & CHUNKY

My 1st ORANGE faced watch. Seiko SKX[一八一]K 7S[二六] 自动. Great luminous glow in the night! Great for movies. It incorporates quickset day and date displays, automatic bi-directional winding via Seiko's patented Magic Lever system. Production date: Feb, 2005

In addition to water-tightness, the ability to withstand abuse is a highly desirable feature for a utility watch of this nature. It has several features that contribute significantly in this regard and a few of them are visible upon removing the solid steel back.

The 7S[二六] uses Seiko's patented Diashock shock protection on the balance pivots, has a soft plastic spacer ring closely integrated with the movement and a relatively low mass rotor that is unlikely to bend or break even with very severe shocks. The plastic spacer ring, combined with the sheer massiveness of the case, provides a great deal of additional shock resistance and is a more economical solution than a metal spacer ring as well. This combination of economic and sensible engineering is a trend that persists in almost every facet of the design of the 7S[二六] movement.

Modified OM & BM: To own or not to own?

Modified pieces of "Monsters" SKX[一七九] and SKX[一八一], tempting to get one modified, but should I?

NEXT: Zenith DEFY 自动

Zenith DEFY 自动. Had always wanted a Zenith, as to me, Zenith = Quality, as far as watches are concerned. Was extremely pleased with the NOS condition of this beauty. Its ticks like a Patek, keeps perfect time. A heavy and substantial watch with solid link bracelet, weighing a whopping 175g.

NEXT: Black Cousin of [SixOneThreeNine] White Helmet Case

This is the blackie version of the [SixOneThreeNine] white Helmet case watch in the previous post, love it just as much! Best part: On original Z050S bracelet as well! Production date: Jul, 1976

NEXT: Seiko [SixOneThreeNine] White Helmet Case

Seiko [SixOneThreeNine]-SevenOneZeroZero 自动 Chronograph. I have a soft spot for 自动 chronographs and Seikos are what I could afford at the current moment. Swiss 自动 chronographs are a hefty price to pay for. This mint NOS example has a helmet shaped case, very retro feel to it. I love it! Production date: Jan, 1976

Cal [SixOneThreeNine] was introduced by Seiko in 1969 and used in the 1970s Seiko 自动 Chronographs. [SixOneThreeNine] has 17 or 21 jewels and dimensions of [SixOneThreeNine] are 27.4 x 6.5 mm, beating at 21,600 bph. Watches with [SixOneThreeNine] movement have one subdial only (30 minutes counter). In terms of accuracy, Seiko promised that both [SixOneThreeEight] and [SixOneThreeNine] movements will keep time within +35 to -20 sec per day.

The beats per hour (BPH) are the number of half swings the balance wheel makes in an hour (i.e. from fully counter clockwise rotation to fully clockwise, or vice versa). The "standard" beat movement is considered to be 18,000 bph, or five beats per second. The true fast beat is 36,000 bph, or 10 beats per second. The advantage of a fast beat movement is that for a given percentage change in torque or power input, there is a small percentage change in balance amplitude (i.e. the "length" of the swing. For chronographs, fast beat movements allow the measure of smaller increments of time (at least theoretically).

A fast beat balance dissipates more energy and thus requires more torque in the form of a thicker spring. The thicker spring, however, has less even torque output over its wind. This offsets some of the advantage of the fast beat. The superiority of the fast beat movements is attributed partly to a smaller drop in amplitude when moving the watch from an edge position (e.g. crown right) to dial up or down. In moving the watch from an edge position to dial up the following changes in amplitude were found. Fully wound: 33 and 20 degrees (21.6 and 36.0 respectively). 24 hours down: 26 and 17 degrees.

In actual use on the wrist, error introduced by rapid arm movement (inertial forces) are lower in the fast beat movement. So, although a fast beat movement may not need more frequent servicing than a slower beat movement, it will be less tolerant of lubrication failure (due to aging, dissipation, etc).

My very 1st Seiko 自动 Chronograph

Got this beauty [SixOneThreeEight]-ZeroZeroFourNine in almost NOS condition with original Z040S fishbone bracelet. Intrigued by the crown and pushers at the 12 o' clock. And I have a soft spot for watches with the day-date at 6! Still one of my faves to date. Production date: Oct, 1977

[SixOneThreeEight] is the first integrated chronograph movement renowned for its ruggedness, complete with column wheel for switching between functions, vertical clutch for a very slick and fluid chrono's engagement and balance bridge. The only other watch with this combination is the current Rolex Daytona.

Cal [SixOneThreeEight] was introduced by Seiko in 1970 and used in the 1970s Seiko 自动 chronographs. [SixOneThreeEight] has 21 jewels and dimensions of [SixOneThreeEight] are 27.4 x 7.9 mm, beating at 21,600 bph. Watches with [SixOneThreeEight] movement have two subdials (a 12-hour counter, and another 30-minute counter). In terms of accuracy, Seiko promised that both [SixOneThreeEight] and [SixOneThreeNine] movements will keep time within +35 to -20 sec per day.